Climbing Shpytsi Peak
- The Shpytsi rocks - stone towers as tall as a ten-storey building, right on the Chornohora ridge
- Lake Nesamovyte (1750 m) - one of the highest and most legendary lakes in the Carpathians
- A panorama of the entire Chornohora ridge: Hoverla, Petros, Turkul, Rebra, Brebeneskul
- A guide, transfer from Yaremche and zero logistics hassle - all you need is good footwear and a good mood
The most scenic ridge in Chornohora, in a single day. We set off at dawn from Yaremche, climb from Zaroslyak to the Shpytsi rocks, pass the legendary lake Nesamovyte along the way, and return that same evening.
Shpytsi isn't a single peak but a jagged rock ridge on the main Chornohora range: stone towers as tall as a decent ten-storey building, which from a distance really do look like spires ("shpytsi" means spikes). Getting here is a bit tougher than the neighbouring Hoverla: the trail is partly unmarked, the elevation gain is bigger, and the final stretch to the ridge is proper mountain terrain. On the plus side, there are far fewer people, and the views, in our opinion, are worth every extra metre of climbing.
On the way to the rocks we pass lake Nesamovyte - one of the highest lakes in the Carpathians (1750 m). It's tiny and shallow, the water stays icy even in July, and locals say this is where hail is born: throw a stone into the water, and a storm will sweep the whole ridge. We don't disturb the lake with stones, and we don't recommend you do either (more on the legend in the questions below).
We start early, at 7:00 from the Yaremche railway station, and take a transfer to the Zaroslyak base - the same one you'd use for Hoverla. From there it's a full day on your feet: first the climb up to the meadow, then onto the ridge to Shpytsi, down to Nesamovyte and back to the bus. All in all, about 16 kilometres and roughly 1,100 metres of elevation gain - so decent footwear here isn't a whim, it's a necessity.
The season for Shpytsi runs roughly from July to early autumn, once the snow has cleared off the ridge and the blueberries on the slopes have ripened. The route has no continuous waymarking, so we go as a group with a guide: they'll set the pace, find the right path between the rocks, and know what to do if the weather turns. And in Chornohora, it turns fast - more on that below too.
RouteRoute map
- The whole trip: transfer and the hike
- The hike in detail
- Elevation profile of the hike
Day by dayItinerary
1 Day 1. The climb
7:00 Departure from the Yaremche railway station. Along the way the bus passes through Dora, Yamna and Mykulychyn - the same route as for Hoverla. No prepayment needed: you pay in cash on boarding, directly to the organiser.
8:20 Tatariv. Participants from Bukovel join the bus here - stop at the turn to Vorokhta. Next stop - Vorokhta.
9:15 Carpathian National Nature Park checkpoint. The guide collects the recreational fee (100 UAH adult, 50 UAH child; the rate changes from time to time) and pays it for the whole group. Then the last few kilometres along a dirt track by the Prut river to the base.
9:30 Zaroslyak base (1330 m). Lace up your boots, pack your bags, check your rain gear and water. Anything you don't need stays on the bus.
9:45 We set off on the route. The trail first runs through forest and the Maryshevska meadow, gradually gaining height.
12:00 We reach the main Chornohora ridge. From here the jagged Shpytsi ridge is already visible, and behind you a panorama opens onto Hoverla and Petros.
12:45 The Shpytsi rocks. Time for photos among the stone towers, a snack, and views over half the ridge at once - Turkul, Rebra, and Brebeneskul in the distance. Anyone who'd rather not climb onto the rocks themselves waits for the group at a comfortable saddle.
13:30 We descend to lake Nesamovyte (1750 m). A break by the water, legends from the guide and, if you like, a short stop for blueberries in season.
14:15 We start the descent back to Zaroslyak along the same meadow.
16:00 Back at the base, we clean our boots and wait for stragglers.
16:30 Departure back along the same road through Vorokhta and Tatariv.
19:00 Yaremche. Final stop - the same place the bus set off from in the morning.
Times are approximate, for the summer season. The guide may adjust the schedule depending on weather, the group's condition and daylight hours.
DeparturesWhen it runs
Departures run regularly. The organiser confirms the exact date and availability.
Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun, July – September
Outdoor Ukraine is a listing platform. The travel-services contract is concluded directly with the organiser Edelweiss Travel (company). We only introduce you and help with the enquiry.
Prices
from 1300 UAH / person
Optional add-ons
- Trekking pole rental +100 UAH
A pair of telescopic trekking poles for the day. They spare your knees on the descent from the ridge and add pace on the climb. Numbers are limited, so mention you'd like to rent poles in advance, when booking your spot.
DetailsIncluded
- 🧭Guide's services
- 🚐Transfer Yaremche - Zaroslyak - Yaremche
Not included
- ✕Entry to Carpathian National Nature Park (100 UAH adult, 50 UAH child; the rate changes from time to time)
- ✕Meals - bring your own snack or lunch box
- ✕Transfer from other cities (Ivano-Frankivsk, Lviv, etc.)
Trip conditions
The route may change due to weather, the group's condition, transport situation or other circumstances.
GearWhat to pack
- 🎒 Comfortable trainers or boots with good lacing and sole grip required
- 👕 A windbreaker jacket and rain gear - the weather in Chornohora can change in a minute required
- 👕 A warm fleece or jumper - it's chilly at altitude even in summer required
- 🎒 A backpack and water, 1.5-2 litres per person required
- 🎒 Trekking poles - available to rent, +100 UAH (see "Add-ons") recommended
- 👕 A hat and sun protection - the sun is strong on the open ridge recommended
- 👕 Spare socks recommended
- 🎒 A snack, sandwiches, a bar of chocolate or a handful of nuts recommended
FAQFrequently asked questions
Is this harder than Hoverla?
Yes, a bit harder. The elevation gain is bigger (about 1,100 metres versus 700 on Hoverla), the distance is similar - around 16 kilometres - but the trail is partly unmarked, and reaching the Shpytsi rocks themselves means proper mountain terrain. On the plus side, there are far fewer people here. If you handled Hoverla without trouble, Shpytsi is well within reach.
Will I be able to manage it?
If you're reasonably fit and used to walking, most likely yes. The main rule is the same as on any mountain: don't rush, and keep a steady pace. On the trickier stretches the guide will show you where to put your feet. If you have any medical conditions that limit exertion, check with your doctor first.
How long does the hike take and what's the elevation gain?
The whole excursion runs from about 7:00 to 19:00, including travel both ways. The route itself is about 16 kilometres with roughly 1,100 metres of elevation gain; pure walking time comes to around 6 hours plus breaks.
What's the story with lake Nesamovyte, and why all the legends?
Nesamovyte is one of the highest lakes in the Carpathians (1750 m), tiny and shallow, with icy water all year round. According to old Hutsul folklore, it's "the place where hail is born": supposedly if you throw a stone into the water, a horseman on a white horse appears, souls rise from the depths, gather ice and scatter it as hailstorms in every direction. That's why locals never disturb the lake with stones - and neither do we.
Can we bring children?
The route is harder than Hoverla, so we don't recommend bringing children under 10-12. Teenagers used to mountains and long hikes can handle it fine - but be realistic about your child's stamina, since turning back halfway is harder here than on Hoverla.
What's the weather like, and is it safe?
Weather in Chornohora is almost impossible to predict: fog, rain, hail and strong wind on the ridge are all routine. Check the forecast before setting off, but bring a jacket and rain gear even if heat is promised. If a storm is moving in over the ridge, the guide changes the plan or cancels the hike - there's nothing to do on an open ridge under lightning.
When can I go to Shpytsi?
The season runs roughly from July to early autumn, once the snow has cleared off the ridge and the weather has settled somewhat. Outside the season, we only do Shpytsi individually and by separate arrangement - in winter it becomes a serious winter route.
Are there any discounts?
Yes. Children under 14 get a 50% discount. Leave a review of the hike on Facebook or Google and we'll take off another 50 UAH.
How do I book and pay?
Book your spot in advance - by phone or message. No prepayment needed: you pay in cash on boarding the bus, directly to the organiser. The national park's recreational fee is paid separately at the checkpoint (see "Not included").