Elbrus from the North

The group meets in Kislovodsk in a pre-booked hotel throughout the day, i.e. arrival time does not matter. The instructors will be waiting for you at the hotel, we will tell you how to get from the station. After checking in, we check the equipment (if suddenly someone forgot something, don’t despair, the instructor will try to solve your problem at the local rental base), divide the food and pack your backpacks and go straight to bed, now rest is very important. You will need a lot of strength!

In the morning we leave towards the mountain. The journey takes 3-4 hours by UAZ. The altitude of our camp is 2500 m. Nearby there is a Base Camp of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and a Canteen. Every driver in the area knows a lot of interesting things about their region and will be happy to point out local attractions along the way...

Upon arrival, we’ll have a little snack and put our backpacks on our shoulders. We will climb along a beautiful gorge to the Aerodrom plateau (2800 m) and at the end, next to the source, we will put up our tents.

Radial to Oleinikov's Hut - in the future this place will be our assault camp, its height is 3740 m. In order not to go empty, we will drop off equipment and food.

In the evening we arrive back to our tents on the Aerodrom plateau (2800 m). This clearing was used by the Germans during the war, fighter planes were based here and German climbers climbed Elbrus from here.

We go again to Oleinikov’s Hut (Northern Shelter). We carry the rest of our things and tents to set up an assault camp there and begin preparations for the ascent. We will set up tents under the supervision of instructors. The winds here can be very strong and you need to secure everything as best as possible, build a windproof wall for the “kitchen”, and set up your camp. Accommodation altitude 3740 m.

Above the Northern Shelter the ice field begins. Therefore, we take off our sneakers and change into plastic shoes or other serious shoes. Today we will go radial through the ice field to the lower cliffs of Lenz 4600 m (4 hours walk). This is necessary to obtain the necessary acclimatization and view the route for further ascent. Having reached the lower cliffs of Lenz, we rest a little (we take time, again for acclimatization). We return and spend the night at the Northern Shelter (3740m).

Today is another acclimatization hike to the upper Lenz rocks (4800-5000m). To feel normal above 5000 meters, your body needs a habit and a sufficient amount of time for acclimatization. So if you want a successful climb, you will have to work hard and endure the monotonous running back and forth along the same route. The movement to the lower rocks takes place in teams, as we walk through the ice field. But at this time of year all the cracks are usually already clogged with snow and ropes are unlikely to be useful. We rest at the rocks, unbuckle ourselves, but continue to walk together, as one group.

We rest before the most important and difficult throw. But this does not mean that we will lie in tents! We need active acclimatization. Snow and ice activities and a walk along the slopes of Elbrus. We go to bed early.

The most important throw to the top! Getting up at one in the morning, getting ready and leaving around two after midnight. In the dark we pass through the ice field - in bundles and with flashlights. Further the trail goes through the Lenz rocks, in some places through stones and quite steeply. At an altitude of 4800-5000 we will meet the dawn. Usually it takes 8-10 hours to get to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (5621 m). The route to the Western Summit is even longer and more difficult, so we definitely won’t make it there in time. For safety reasons, we begin our descent at 2 p.m., no matter where we are. The descent from the top to the Northern Shelter takes about 3 hours and is no easier than the ascent. After all, at the end of the day you will be incredibly exhausted, dehydrated and hungry, despite all the thermoses, rests and snacks. Today we will need all our strength and skills. Most importantly, listen to your instructors!

A spare day in case of bad weather. And a lot in this region depends on it. Although there are examples when groups made ascents in stormy winds with blizzards and fog. Trust your guides. For them, the main thing is your safety and success. Whatever their decision, accept it with understanding.

Descent down through the stone mushrooms to Emmanuel's clearing. Inspection of local attractions: silver spring, Sultan waterfall and hot springs of Djily-Su...

Later, departure to Kislovodsk to the hotel. There we celebrate the end of our journey, wash and warm up, prepare to board a train or plane...

Departure home! Those who have tickets after lunch can take a walk around the city and its attractions.