The Carpathians were blown away
🗓 2007-01-12
<...and when he walks ahead, at times he feels so good,
and he is overcome with such delight that for several days he is both stronger and smarter...>
Joseph Kahiani
Our group went to the observatory with lost visibility and increasing wind. Celebrating the new year with a failed attempt go out the next morning, on the third day we spent the night in front of the Rebra, on the next day - on Pozhizhevskaya, then they tried to climb Hoverla to were unable to reach the warm ridges of the lintel and fell down the valley with waterfall But it’s not very interesting to talk in this way...
Having hacked myself near the post, I saw how the wind pushed Olya in the snow. Sava was on his knees and there was nothing through his glasses visible; later he would say that he was delighted with such a storm - so so strong that it is difficult to breathe in it. Yes, and I didn't know this could happen. I get up, pulling myself up by the pin, and run towards the wind - but it turns out forward, where you wanted.
Everyone to the observatory - until the next morning.
At the stations of Lvov and Kyiv they approached the groups with a rope on the outside with a strange question - <do you have frostbite?>. No introduction. Some answered with humor, some were hostile, but it’s up to us I was interested in something strange - we froze in the Carpathians. What before was considered almost impossible. <We didn’t take good care of ourselves> - <And we, probably too much - in this weather we sat near Smotrich and didn’t go anywhere>.
Annushka said that her knee has been hurting for three days now. and walked more slowly. It was unloaded. The sun was setting, all around - according to the map, not to the eye - a plane, the rise in front is a mountain and the rise behind is a mountain. Montenegrin ridge. Somehow I remember you can only hide further, to the left from the Pozhizhevskaya-Breskul saddle. I'm going on the instruments, looking out slope direction. Two steps, I stop, count to 10, two more step - so as not to break away from the group. ZhPS coldly shows our speed - 0.64 km/h, further - less. In addition, he knows how to show predicted time of arrival at the point, but I don’t even look at it. Points entered somehow - I didn’t plan to use it, it’s a toy, that’s all laughed - zhps in the Carpathians, yes.
Dark. Now you can't wear glasses - slopes without them almost invisible. From time to time I bring my hand to my right eye and take it out a piece of ice, sometimes with an eyelash, and sometimes not. ZhPS freezes, you have to push it into your sleeve towards your body to keep it warm - it hurts.
The wind is from the right all day. It never subsides at all, and the next day it’s the same, but on the left.
I laid four days on the Montenegrin ridge and people, Those who were there even in winter said: “Yes, this is a two-day route.” Indeed, they completed it in two days, spending the night in front of the Rebra. And I remember like two years ago, when I was little, many called winter The Montenegrin ridge is the most disastrous place in the Carpathians.
On the right, parallel to our course, there is a barely visible thin dividing line into white-violet and white-steel. Moving my eyes up and down, the line moves accordingly. It doesn't seem like it. From behind, Zakhar's cry - the cornice! He noticed too. No one else, or they are silent. When I graduated from the MCC, I held Zakhara’s certificate in my hands with a simple admiring characterization, and I am completely convinced of it. I always go - trailing, he - trailing, and from this system it spreads peace of mind for the whole group.
What an amazing first ever guide!
Two tents, in the other - Zakhar as the eldest, we approach them like this and shout through the roar of the wind - “zakharchiki”. In the evening and in the morning I drive everyone to ours, I sit in the vestibule and cook food, tea and tea: duty here seems inappropriate. It’s much more natural when someone who has the strength cooks. there's more left.
The tents are cozy. All our overnight stays were amazing warm. People are waiting out the blizzard just behind the snow walls - you need to know that someone has already done this and repeat it.
The climb to Hoverla is like an arrow that never will reach the goal only because it still has half the distance left from half the distance. At three o'clock I shout - "down, back to your place" follow!>. We take off Olya’s backpack; Zakhar is towing it with difficulty. There will be descent through a valley with a waterfall, to the source of the Prut - direction dictated by the wind.
We didn’t see the Sun, but at times the cloud became so thin, and a golden reflection appeared, and one could see shadows from the snow, and it seemed - a little more.
It’s not that we don’t take special care - pointed out the white spots on the face, warmed up frozen hands, watched your feelings, but it’s enough not to heat the glove in the evening, and the ice will the brush will not melt in a day - the wind will not give it; skin will touch all day ice. We were surprised to find red spots already below.
Down, some by three strokes, some by planing. From above the wind is descending: storm gusts are getting lower and lower. It's getting dark. Above me the whole group. I raise my head - Sava is sliding, but somehow sideways. Before me Lumps of snow are already arriving. <Hack with a bayonet!> - and I cut myself to death; blow, We ride together, clutching our backpacks, spinning slightly. <Rub!>, once again, more. Have you stopped? It seems that the slope is moving with us? Sava gets up, he The pants are torn where the pocket is.
The wind comes down from above, but you can’t go any lower - there’s a cliff. Goverlyanskaya hanging valley. There is nowhere to stay. We dig a platform in the slope, and in half an hour - a comfortable overnight stay with water very close at hand, but backpacks remain to live outside. And in the morning there was the Sun, and everything seemed very simple and clear.
This hike is something greater than all previous hikes. B mainly due to the group. We say goodbye in the subway, it’s noisy: I show with my left with the hedgehog's hand, with my right hand I draw stripes down from his eyes: the hedgehog is crying - sad-sad.
SAVA
So I arrived in Kyiv and came to work. Mid January we are sitting in a room with an open window without a heater, there is grass outside the window, about Only the crows in the trees remind us of winter. Not in my head fits. I look at frostbite - it looks like a rather unpleasant thing. Nonsense, it will heal. Other worries.
Remember something - hmm, just one thing - firn and wind. B ten steps away from you, one smoothly turns into another. On the storm collar of the gate the hood was unfastened, the Velcro was covered with snow, now it’s not button it up. Here he is, lashing his face, and is also frozen from his breath. His You can’t attach it with Velcro, you need some more buttons, hey, who’s there? designs windbreakers? My hand feels almost nothing, I use it to catch the fraying edge of the collar, I clean the snow from the Velcro and fasten the collar. I turn my head towards the wind and the hood instantly comes off. No use. I pull on my balaclava, but it’s frozen from a runny nose.
A side gust of wind blows to the left, I rest my stick on firn, it folds under my weight and the pressure of the wind. New Masters Sherpa... I stand up, rest my feet on the nozzle and pull the stick to the same length. Equipment breaks down every minute.
If you fall behind, catch up; if you lose your breath, there’s nothing to do breathe. There's a gust of wind, I turn my guitar to the wind, it's on the outside and if sideways, it greatly increases the windage, I rest against two sticks land. Two people fell in front of me. Now the wind is still a little bit will get stronger, and let's go with ice axes. We will fly. I'm fine, I'm fine The ice ax is good. And I can almost always get up after a fall without taking off backpack But someone can’t - I don’t see who, the glasses are on the outside frozen. It's a girl. I'm going to help her. When I approach, she is already almost stood up. My foot sinks too deep and we both we fall. Damn Baywatch.
The shoe covers were torn and my feet got wet. In Kyiv it was in shambles
I was fiddling with normal shoe covers, I thought I was going to a resort. Nothing, the main thing
don’t stand, walk all the time, even in circles, then you won’t freeze. And
It will be better to sleep.
So they went. It wasn't difficult, it was normal. Only after passing, I understand that
went to the limit. Maybe I wasn't ready psychologically. To this - yes, no
was. I was going to the Carpathians. I have already been to the winter Carpathians on the same
route! I walked the Montenegrin Ridge 7 times, mostly in the summer,
true.
And somehow everything turned out smoothly, smoothly, we walked along the blade of the knife and did not cut themselves. Frostbite - yes, scratches - that's all remind us of how far things have come.
I stand with wet feet knee-deep in the snow and hide from the wind. Soothing and harmonious music plays in your ears. Listen only the wind would be much heavier. It's like she's mocking me, but I can't put nothing else, for this you need to take off the glove. It's already dark. The fox is standing at the post on Pozhizhevskaya and trying to bring the ZhPS to his senses. We need to set up camp. There is a place on the bridge Pozhizhevskaya - Breskul, with sides of the traverse. You can hide there. We searched for him several times hours... in the dark. What would I do if I were Fox? ... Don't know. Here just die.
We are building a wall where we stand. We build - we build. The main thing is not to stand.
And probably, due to the inexperience of the instructor, we went along ridge in such weather, and thanks to his professionalism and dedication we reached from there intact.
Hmm, I went on a hike to understand something about myself, but I realized more about others. And about the Carpathians. The Carpathians in bad weather are small Himalayas. I heard it somewhere.
I'll say it again - it wasn't hard. It was <Wow...>. It was just realized later that it was dangerous.
MASHA
<From the jug over the edge, milk pours into the sky>
White snow, gray ice. Not a very steep climb. Watch there is no sense on the sides - everything there is the same gray. Only a couple of times I was lucky enough to see the horizon, but quickly got sucked in. That's why it's more interesting look down: the shoe covers of the person ahead are flashing there. The weather is cold, snow, strong wind, but better than yesterday and that’s enough. And suddenly I notice that I’m walking and smiling...
* * *
Astonishment. This was the first feeling. It turns out that the wind can knock you down. It turns out that there is so much air that it’s easy it is unbearably difficult to breathe. Now, it seems, you can breathe! But the wind so strong and an absurd thought comes to mind that from inhaling It will just burst your lungs. But here it becomes somehow simple... abnormally fun...
Trying to turn away from the white crumble that cuts face, eyes, sticks to eyelashes (glasses are of no use, because they rest somewhere under the hood). I fall to my knees, accepting more or less stable position. Only now you need to move forward somehow. Not Trouble is, we’ll walk through Chernogorsk on all fours.
There is Fox, Sava and Anya in front and someone behind. Interesting, huh? what each of them feels. I'm not scared and not cold. to me fun and I know I need to move forward. All. No more feelings. This then, when we returned to the observatory building, it became clear that some felt something similar. And I didn’t really want to sit in four walls, but I wanted to go outside and take a walk in the wind. It was second day of the hike.
* * *
There is a goal, there is a need. There is a jumper over It’s either a snow wall that needs to be built, or it’s icy. the slope you're going down. There's fatigue and cold that you need endure, frayed nerves that need to be calmed, disgusting equipment and a balaclava forgotten at home (shame!!!). And the thought that it's not Carpathians! It’s later, after such moments seem banal, well-known, ordinary, or something... But not during a hike.
* * *
Eight people in a four-person tent drink tea, play mafia and sing with a guitar. An unaffordable luxury ^)!
* * *
Surreal sign: 700 meters to Goverla. U Zahara's glove flies away. He puts on a spare one. For some reason my hand is torn and in the blood. Let's go to Hoverla. Terrible wind and very cold. I'm trying warm up your hands - they hurt. Face - it’s as if it’s not there, I’m not there I feel it. With your back to the wind, your side to the slope - just to hide your face. Oh I think to the leader that he is always right... ^) The one who goes ahead, It goes very (!) slowly!
We go down in <three beats>. Steep slope, snow a lot. Below me is Annushka - very opportunely I remember Bulgakov and his Annushka, who spilled the oil... Zakhar and Seryoga are on top. They're having fun there - they're in add one more to your backpacks. But the slope is still not ends, you look down, and there is no end to it. And I want this it finally stopped...
* * *
We are walking along the road to Vorokhta. Asphalt underfoot. Grey. Behind, on the mountain slopes, there is snow. Also gray. And also blue ice waterfall It's warm here. And there is no wind here. And in general it’s very comfortable... And There are people next to me, closer than whom there are no people in the whole wide world! It doesn't matter that this white light yesterday was limited to a visibility zone of 20 meters... And suddenly I notice that I’m walking and smiling...
No, can you really like this? Don't know. I know that I have never, not once, on any campaign, felt like this... So. I understand that happy.
LAPINIST
The higher we rise, the wind increases and decreases. visibility. Well, just like hedgehogs in the fog! Team to put on balaclavas and glasses (masks). What a thrill - such a wind!
Me (singing): Fat_t is approaching, fat_t is approaching.
And through the yellow glass of the mask everything acquires apocalyptic tone. Fox and Sava go ahead. Olya is lagging behind. Zakharchik is bringing up the rear. Repasha runs along the group. And so the whole climb.
Sava: Observatory, wall. See there?
Me: No, the mask is frozen! I believe you!
Observatory. We go into the first room we come across, it turned out to be the most suitable for habitation. Covered with snow, with two windows and passage to the street. We clear the ice from our jackets and put on our down jackets. Cold.
Me (singing): Fat_t is approaching, fat_t is approaching.
We need to do something. Repasha gathers a construction team entrance and windows. We are clearing places for tents. The main thing is not to waste dig.
The room has been improved. It's windless and good, but it's blowing overboard...
Let's have lunch. Lard, sausage, cheese and crackers. Tea.
We set up tents and pack. It's fun and warm when there are 10 people in a tent!
Sava: We’re playing mafia, we have cards.
I:??? Taking cards on a hike is a bad omen: there will be bad weather, and you will spend the entire hike in a tent playing cards.
Back then no one even suspected what awaited us...
We sing songs and play mafia for several hours in a row. And Only stomach juice tore us away from this. Started licking for cooking dinner. Conveniently, there was a concrete concrete block in the middle of the room. "table", and another one - near the wall, where Fox and Zakharchik lit the burner.
While preparing food, we learn songs, play contact games, and tell jokes.
Dinner is ready. Let's eat. Fkusninka. They give you a supplement. I'll take it.
Before New Year's Eve we decide to play "mafia" some more. It’s warm and cozy in the tent, this toy has captivated everyone.
All: Let's kill Repasha first, he'll leave tomorrow, and we won't be able to kill him!
Masha: Kill me! I'm tired of being idle in the city, I'm not interested in playing...
Sava: I love the game. Lipinistka is a mafia, she doesn’t know how to lie...
Olya: I don't like this game. But it’s so interesting to buy everyone out!
NG was greeted cheerfully. With mulled wine from Repasha, Grandfather Frost in a red balaclava from Sergei (who looked more like executioner), with Olivier from Masha (who forgot peas and boiled sausage). Everyone received a gift of pigs that grunted and said “I love you". Opening a bottle of champagne on the street and lighting sparklers, dancing the cancan, congratulating other crazy people who met NG at Pip Ivan, went to the cats, anticipating the upcoming conquest Montenegrin ridge...
* * *
Morning. It's not childish to sweep overboard. Having eaten and gathered, We pack as warmly as possible and go out one by one. Strong wind but in warm gloves, a balaclava with a bread bag, a mask, a hood - in just right. Everyone got out and we set off. Walking along the wall of the observatory the wind was still tolerable. And having gone beyond the wall, everyone, one after another, began fall. We got up, went out onto the slope and could not move.
Fox: Back! Everyone back!
Under the wall, where there was less wind, Fox and Repasha considered possible options.
Fox: Everyone inside!
I don’t know what was going on in Fox’s head, but he had a very hard time.
Being a commander is hard. During the hike, the Fox became serious and
tired.
We did not interfere with his thoughts.
Repasha, having given the Fox a parting word, left with Behemoth.
The fox decided to go on reconnaissance, to see if there was wind below and then make a decision. Conditionally set control time 2 hours. He decided to go with Zakharchik. Oh, how I wanted to go too! C with an ice ax, to break through the wind and snow, to cover up without visibility down and then up! But I didn’t even try, because they are horsemen, and I'm women.
They left. We decided to put one cat. When the last of us climbed into the tent, Fox and Zaharchik returned.
Fox: We live here until the morning.
So we lived at the observatory for another day.
* * *
We got up early, which I liked. rise one for everyone: for those on duty and for us. But while that tent is preparing breakfast, you can wake up slowly. Zakharchik got up earlier and started to burn:
Zakharchik: Well, they pushed me against the wall again.
Seryoga, me, Annushka: Yes, we’re lying here like sardines!
Zaharchik: Exactly like sprats in a jar, but why diagonally?
Well, breakfast is ready. I notice that my “bowl” is cracked. Eh, the second one already... But nothing, we have one more, from under halva.
Zaharchik: Oh, a plastic bowl:) do you know that they are often stepped on while camping? But don't worry, in winter - less often...
Let's eat. Fkusninka. They give you a supplement. I'll take it.
Gathering is my favorite time. From under the wall of the tent you take out the frozen membrane and start clearing it of ice, then you put on a wet one under your down jacket, put on wet gloves and (not for faint of heart) you climb out of the tent. Wind. Well, almost refreshing:).
Me: Good morning everyone!
We need to go outdoors. This is simply a feat that we accomplish every day, and even twice.
Having collected my backpack, I help to assemble the tent, it’s especially fun on
wind. The main thing is to immediately start folding as soon as you pulled it out of there.
the last thing, otherwise it gets carried away.
03.01.07
Seryoga (photographer) was disappointed with this situation - visibility on the ridge was only on January 2nd. And so you go and go all the time you only see the heels of the person in front. Particularly interesting are the traverses: you look up - an abyss, down - an abyss... Where are we going anyway? And we walked to Turkul. We even climbed it! Just not straight, but traverse, just like Superturkul. Why aren't we horses?
Forward. Stop. Back in the footsteps. Forward.
I'm telling you, horses.
You walk like this and remember what it’s like here with normal visibility. Sometimes we came across familiar places.
It's dark, cold and hungry. This is how you can freeze when moving - if you go slowly. I stop and put on my down jacket, This is the time when everyone overtakes me. “Just don’t detain everyone.” Not all - closing Let's go.
Fox: This is where we live.
All: Here???
Right in an area open to the wind, not a hillock around, only a barely noticeable slope.
Fox: Yes, here. We are building a snow wall.
And everyone has only one thing on their mind: a bathhouse, girls... Well, or at least a tent and a sleeping bag. Well, okay, the tent is not for us yet.
So let's see what a snow wall is. Fighting spirit We were always on top, everyone left their backpacks and began to do something. Lis and Zakharchik marked out a site for tents, and we raked from there snow. Seryoga began to chop snow bricks with a snowshoe, the rest were engaged in architecture. Soon he got just even bricks are on average 50 by 50 cm in size and 20 cm in height.
Fox: Watch what Seryoga does and do the same!
Zakharchik joined the production of building materials. We built a wall on the windy side with the letter "G" and a height of one and a half meters. True, at night the wind changed direction... Well, that's it...
04.01.07
...
We go all day on muesli (oh that's how it is!). Without breaks and lunch. Once again I am convinced that there is no limit human capabilities. “Oh, how I want to eat... buckwheat with stew... or at least with sprat... I'll tell you everything... no, of course I won't... but I need to say..."
We walk slowly, and to rest you just lean back against the wind. Here is the climb to Hoverla. The wind is so strong that everything go "at an angle". Fox has a white spot on his nose.
Masha: Fox! Your nose is frostbitten!
It's hard to hear because of the wind.
Masha: My nose is frostbitten!
I see that Olya and Annushka are having a hard time walking. Snow layer small, the path is rocky and slippery in places. Someone falls, gets up, moves on.
Fox: Back on the tracks.
With a slight turn of the bodies, the leader turns into a leader and we go back. It's very scary to go down with such a wind.
Horses. But not all. Olin’s backpack is carried, changing, by Sava, Zakharchik and Seryoga.
Fox: Let's try faster, because it will soon get dark, and we still need to spend the night somewhere.
We go down somewhere in the direction of a thicket. We stop.
Fox: Get the ice picks! Next - in three bars!
The slope goes down sharply. Everyone is hiding behind the bend. I I follow Masha, followed me - Seryoga with snowshoes taken from Olinoy backpack and Zakharchik with 2 bags.
"Ice axe, one leg, the other... Ice axe, one leg, the other..."
Me: F-f-fatit!
Masha: Gee!
Hanging from an ice axe. Too lazy to undermine.
Masha: Steps, chop the steps!
Eh, chop...
Lyrical digression from Zakharchik: when you go down down the slope in three beats and between your legs you begin to see the sky - know that you you're climbing the next mountain:)
Seryoga triggers avalanches from above. An ice ax in one hand, snowshoes in the other, the first time on a winter hike. I think how is he doing?
Oh, we can finally walk normally. After waiting for Zaharchik, We continue our descent. I see how the Fox broke down and hacked himself to death. Sava jumped for him, the Fox hacked him to death. Sharp ice picks at the grivel. Sava hole in your pants refused to stitch it up.
Fox: Go around to the right!
We go around. Everyone quickly descends, except for Zakhar. I decide to wait for him.
Me: I want to help you!
Zaharchik: You will help me if you go down faster!
Below I see Olya “hanging” on an ice ax for a long time, I wrote it off This was due to inexperience; I didn’t see how the others descended. Far away, barely you can see how everything is already below. I continue my descent. "Oh horror. This is ice spilled snowball" Paws are moving. I remember that the main thing is not to be afraid. I push my beak into ice I look down. “I don’t want to fall into the abyss. Go to the right... A what if there is ice everywhere???" I look up. "Zakharchik, of course, is big dzhigit, no doubt, but..." I ride on my knees and on an ice ax. There is snow on the right.
I decide to help Zakharchik and quickly plunge down through the snow.
We are waiting. Zakharchik approaches.
Me: There was fatit.
Zaharchik: Yes, I started praying there too.
We hang the backpack on Olya and go. Around the trees, bushes and It seems that we are already down. But that was not the case. Trail. There is no path. Water. Stream? We go along the sidewalk. Stop.
Sava: Let's rappel!
In the morning we went to see what was there. Now I know where the waterfall is on Hoverla;)
Fox: Follow the tracks back to the place where you can put up tents.
No, not horses. Black horses! There is a slope on both sides, and in the middle there is a stream.
Fox: We live here. We trample down places for tents.
“Bathhouse, girls...” We throw our backpacks on the slope and that’s it We trample down the snow and shovel it to the edge. And so on until we have It turned out to be a platform for two tents. As a result, we are a meter deep compacted the snow.
ZAKHAR
dialogue with Tyoma Sokolov (instead of conclusion)
- The fox here sent the participants’ impressions of your hike - was it all so harsh or was it a woman’s view?
- Well, how can I tell you? Although the trip wasn't very good long-lasting, but it seemed to me that I had never been in such F... sat for such a long time. Two nights at the observatory is okay, but 2 overnight stays on the ridge with constant strong winds, and some other precipitation They slap you in the face all the time. During the day outside, my outerwear became frozen. We probably had a lot of girls and moved very slowly. I think if the speed had been greater, we simply would not have exposed ourselves such prolonged weather loads. The boys couldn't physically go difficult, I think, but it was really scary for the girls, they It was difficult to stay on my feet, but due to my limited winter experience some probably found it difficult to endure the winter (cold\snowy\wet) hardships, and the experience of carrying them correctly It just probably wasn't enough. Me, walking in my hood, in such a wind I wondered how the people there could stand it all day (even though they were in We wore balaclavas all the time).
Well, in the end, almost half of the squad is trifle frosted, even on Olya’s fingertip, when they had already descended, a liquid blister formed, she went to the doctor in Kyiv. For others, you know, those little bits of darkening of the skin in areas of frostbite. Well, and one more thing There were a couple of scary moments when we went out onto rather steep slopes. Difficult moments mainly due to insufficient technical and physical preparation required for these areas for some participants.
In general, as for me, the overlay turned out to be insufficient strong female component (but quite numerous:)) and very adverse weather conditions. And it seemed to me that the Fox and the people who wrote their “impressions”, wanted to show in them that for the winter The Carpathians need to be taken seriously...
- What about the descent from Goverla? This reminded me a lot of how we fell from Goverla with Shapik:)
- Yes, the descent is bad. But I'm not sure there were options. Of course, I still wanted to push, to lean on, to jerk, and yet pass Hoverla and descend normally there. But the leader accepted decisions to fall from the climb to Goverla back to the bridge between the city of Breskul and the city of Goverla and from there down from the ridge to hell. The manager knows better our speed as we climbed Goverla became slower and slower slower, and the wind seemed to be getting stronger, and the Fox decided to get out of here. Yes I am remembered you and Shapik, and Lis was also aware, but if you look, then other options were even worse. For example, the Goverla traverse (just for you reminded) with such visibility and weather there was an even worse option, as me. There was no point in staying on the ridge. And in the direction where we are However, in the summer there was a path to the waterfalls. Therefore I think that option is, as it were, the lesser of two evils. Another thing is that there was still a slope difficult and unpredictable due to poor visibility. Difficult for level of this group.
- Clear. Hoverly traverse - no. I think everything is an option 2 (or 3, if there was time), if one of yours is already there, -- It’s dangerous, even though it’s the shortest and you leave the ridge right away. Second, return to Pozhizhevskaya or somewhere else and go, if there was time (IMHO, the most normal, but I should have used it earlier). Or go to Hoverla and go down the normal climb (it may be bad with orientation, if you have a bad idea of what is there and where, but with GPS it could it would work out if it weren’t for another 200 meters of ascent). In general, it's good that we descended normally, but it would be better to walk with a margin of safety and play it safe.
The original article is on the website of the Globus tourist club
P.S. The Carpathians may have blown away, but the tourists remain.