How to choose a tent
The industry produces tents for various types of travel, climatic zones, seasons, as well as mobile, semi-permanent and stationary outdoor recreation.
Tourist tents can be classified into tents according to their purpose
for highlands, for midlands, for plains.
In each of these three categories there is a conditional division into “upper”, “medium” and “low” tents. This gradation depends on the materials used for the arches and awning, technologies, impregnations and design.
Alpine tents are divided into expeditionary and assault.
High altitude tents are specially designed for extreme conditions: high altitude, frost, strong wind, etc.
Expedition tents - for the “Himalayan” style of climbing, when several base camps are created during the ascent. An expedition tent is designed to stand in one place for a long time, so it must be wind-resistant and its design must be rigid enough to withstand the pressure of wind and snow.
Assault tents - for the “alpine” style, in which base camps are not set up, and the tent is carried with you throughout the entire ascent; therefore, the assault tent should also be as light as possible.
Tents for mid-mountain mountains combine the qualities of expeditionary and assault tents: they are more comfortable and therefore heavier than assault tents, but lighter than expeditionary ones.
Plain tents - for swamps, tundra, taiga, for simple hikes, picnics, weekend trips. Typically, company catalogs indicate the recommended purpose of the tent (for example, for mountain tourism, mountaineering, auto tourism).
Tents for mid-mountain and lowland tents are divided into:
A camping tent is used by lovers of long-term outdoor recreation. It is very convenient when used for camping sites, children's camps, weekend picnics, base camps on the approach to ascents.
The tents are equipped with comfortable and adjustable ventilation holes, as well as mosquito nets at the entrances.
Tents of this type are characterized by increased comfort. They may have several rooms, windows, corridors. Most tents allow you to walk upright. In general, a small movable apartment. But, as you know, you have to pay for comfort. And not only with money. First of all, it is impossible to use such tents in other types of hikes due to their greater weight (more than 7 kg).
Universal tents are more comfortable; they are not subject to such stringent requirements for wind resistance, but have other qualities common to all types, such as water resistance, the use of “breathable” fabrics, etc. must be at the proper level.
Tents for hiking and mountain trekking.
The specificity of these hikes is that you only have what you carry on your back. This is not easy, so you don’t need extra pounds in a tent. In addition, “sometimes” the wind blows, rain drips and snow falls. Because of this, the requirements for tents are quite strict - the weight per person should not be more than 1.2-1.3 kg for a 3-seater and 1-1.1 kg. for a 4 person tent. At the same time, the structure must be rigid enough to withstand the pressure of wind and snow. It’s good if the tent is equipped with a “skirt” to protect it from snow.
Tents for water trips.
It is unlikely that you will go on such a hike in winter, which means you most likely will not need protection from snow. The weight of the tent will also not play a significant role, which means you can choose a more comfortable tent. Wind resistance will also not be a critical parameter, therefore, of the two classic shapes - “hemisphere” and “half-barrel” - you can choose the latter due to its larger usable volume and better habitability.
Tents can be divided according to their design features into two main groups:
single-layer
two-layer
Single-layer tents are made mainly from waterproof synthetic materials. Their main advantages are lightness and compactness, and the main problem is condensation accumulating on the walls of the tent. Therefore, when choosing a single-layer tent, you should be guided, first of all, by the type and quality of the fabric. If the material is waterproof but non-breathable, then a well-thought-out ventilation system is needed: mesh holes on all sides of the tent. Currently, numerous types of two-layer tents are most widespread, as they are the most functional.
A two-layer tent consists of two tents: an outer one - waterproof and an inner one - light, breathable.
Double-layer tents are divided into:
"Hemispheres" or dome tents
"Half Barrels"
Gable or tent tents
"Hemispheres" or dome tents
“Hemispheres” and their various modifications perfectly withstand the wind (some manufacturing companies “blow” prototypes in a wind tunnel at wind speeds of up to 50-60 m/s!), but have a smaller vital volume due to the spherical arch. The classic “hemisphere” rests on two intersecting frame arcs. Based on the classics, a huge number of hybrid structures have been created: from lightweight one- or two-person tents with just one arc to professional “winter” models, the frame of which consists of 6 or more complexly intertwined arcs. This is necessary to give the tent a more streamlined shape and at the same time to reduce the area of the “sailing” awning that does not rest on the frame. Without instructions, it can be difficult to figure out how to set up such a tent. The advantages of this type include the following characteristics: good wind resistance; the possibility of installation without any stretching (to achieve the same wind resistance you will still have to stretch it), as well as movement without dismantling the structure; Possibility of installation by one person with certain skills in 5-7 minutes. The “hemisphere” can be placed on almost any surface. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the presence of a frame - this is, after all, weight.
Tents "Half Barrels"
“Half-barrels” (also called “hangar” or “cylinder”) are distinguished by slightly better habitability and a larger usable volume. “Half-barrels” come on two or three frame arcs (sometimes there are more, but this is the lot of huge, multi-person tents); it all depends on the size and windage (leeward surface area). The presence of a third intermediate arc makes the structure heavier, but also increases strength and prevents sagging of the awning. From the name it is obvious that tents of this type are a half-cylinder, stretched on 3-4 arcs installed perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder. Compared to “hemispheres”, this type provides more comfortable sleeping places (larger specific volume, greater height of the tent’s clearance). Often in half-barrels, a third of the volume, or even a good half, is occupied by a roomy vestibule, which makes them, in our opinion, especially attractive as a base tent or for long stays in one place. The half-barrel is practically not used in high-altitude ascents. But, unfortunately, tents of this type are inferior to hemispheres in terms of stability and ease of installation, and wind resistance suffers.
Gable or tent tents of traditional shape are still used in simple tourist trips, as well as as mess rooms in the base camps of large expeditions. And although in terms of basic parameters they are inferior to the above two types, their advantages include the simplicity of load-bearing structures.
TENT CONSTRUCTION
Important elements of a successful design solution are vestibules, skirts, mosquito nets and other seemingly small things.
Tent vestibule
The vestibule serves as a storage place for all sorts of things, of which, as a rule, there is a lot, a kitchen in bad weather conditions, and also a launching pad for entering an aggressive environment. We can definitely say that in order to perform all these functions, the vestibule should be as large as possible. An old outdoor proverb says: “One vestibule is good, but two are still better.” As a rule, one vestibule is used as a storage room, and the second for everything else (see above).
To increase the volume of the vestibule, two methods are used: the use of a separate arc or a special overhead element. When using a separate arc, it is preferable that it is not attached to the ends of the main arcs, but intersects with them - this increases the overall rigidity of the structure and protects against “unauthorized” folding.
The location of the vestibule (from the end or the side) is of great importance. The first option is more attractive. Since it makes it easier to enter and exit the tent (you don’t have to climb over peacefully sleeping comrades), it makes more efficient use of space, which is critical in bivouacs. On the other hand, the side design of the vestibule allows you to do without an additional arc, which reduces the overall weight of the tent, but does not improve its characteristics, since although it turns out to be voluminous, it is low and uncomfortable.
Skirt (tent canopy)
The skirt is a strip of fabric around the perimeter of the tent, adjacent directly to the ground. It can be either sewn or removable. At a minimum, the possibility of rolling it should be provided. Having a skirt is essential when using tents in the mountains, in winter, or simply at low temperatures. This includes additional insulation, the absence of a nasty draft from the side and below; This is also an opportunity to further strengthen the tent by filling the “skirt” with snow or placing bricks cut from dense snow on it.
Attaching the awning and inner tent
Methods of attaching the awning and inner tent to the frame. There are two options. Option one: the frame can be outside the awning and attached to it through pockets, the inner tent is suspended from the awning. Option two: the frame is inserted into a pocket or hung on hooks (which is much more convenient) of the inner tent, and the awning is pulled on top. In the first case, the tent is assembled easier and with less loss (it is convenient to place it in the rain or in strong winds: the awning is put up first, and therefore the inner tent does not get wet).
The disadvantages of this design are that you cannot put up a tent without an awning, and in strong gusts of wind it can easily tear off the pockets for the tent frame (this has been observed even with super-sophisticated companies). In the second case, the inner tent is first set up, and the awning rests flat on the frame - such a tent needs to be set up quickly in the rain. On some tents with such a frame fastening system, a small upgrade is possible that eliminates this drawback. But in dry and warm weather, you can do without an awning altogether. Regarding the elements of fastening the tents to the frame. There is complete pluralism among producers here, but the following main trends can be identified:
hooks - allow you to quickly and conveniently attach the tent to the frame, but are relatively fragile;
ties - cheap, reliable and cheerful, but long;
Velcro - fast, but unreliable;
pockets are reinforced concrete, but not very convenient during installation;
lacing - not checked
Mosquito nets.
Very important during an invasion of buzzing bloodsuckers. As a rule, grids should duplicate inputs.
Ventilation of the tent.
A prerequisite for classifying a tent as “good” and even more so “excellent” is the presence of a well-thought-out ventilation system. Some foreign models provide the ability to access external ventilation holes from the inner tent. No snow or rain should enter the tent through the ventilation openings. It is better if the ventilation can be opened or closed without leaving the tent.
The tent must be equipped with additional wind guys, and the places where they are sewn to the awning must be reinforced with pads.
Nice little things.
You also need various pleasant little things that make life much easier: a large number of pockets, mounts for lamps and hanging burners, a mesh under the ceiling for drying small items.
Tent entrance
The form of entry can be very diverse - it depends on the purpose of the tent and the preferences of the owner of the tent. The tube (“sleeve”) is the easiest to manufacture and most durable, but it is inconvenient to use. Previously, most homemade tents were equipped with just such an entrance, but now the tube remains only for winter, “arctic” models, where there is a risk of lightning freezing and it is necessary to ensure a minimum gap between the person getting into the tent and the tent fabric - so that less snow flies inside. Most tents have a zippered entrance with plastic teeth. You cannot buy metal ones for winter use: the metal will instantly become covered with frost and freeze. The entrance is made double - the fabric of the inner tent is duplicated with a mosquito net; If desired, you can close both layers or use only one. Many tent models have two entrances; this is especially true for 3-4 person tents.
Dimensions.
First, you need to estimate how many people will live in the tent. Secondly, the size of the inner tent should also be taken into account, especially for tall individuals. Can you stretch out to your full height in a tent? After all, this is also necessary for proper rest. How comfortable can you sit in your tent? It is better to wait out the vagaries of nature not in a completely crouched position. It is also worth paying attention to the size of the vestibule for your shoes and backpacks. It should be roomy enough for at least the shoes and dishes of everyone living in the tent.
MATERIALS
Arcs.
First of all, they are required to be light, durable, and the tent frame should not deform under load. These requirements are well met by racks made of various aluminum alloys. Fiberglass or plastic is often used, but they are considered less durable.
For the manufacture of frame arches, the following materials known to us are used:
Duralumin grade D16T: light, cheap;
duralumin alloy grade B95: better than D16T, but more expensive;
anodized aluminum alloys such as Easton 7075 T6, 7001 T6 or;
various types of fiberglass: lightweight, durable material that has no permanent deformation, but becomes relatively brittle in the cold;
steel frames with high strength and elasticity, but at the same time heavy weight, which narrows the range of their applications.
Currently, most manufacturers use either plastic stands or aluminum alloy tubes. Plastic racks are used in cheap “beach” models; they are less durable and repairable. It is important to note that in high mountains, plastic decomposes in 2-3 seasons under the influence of hard ultraviolet radiation and becomes very brittle. Aluminum frames are much more durable. The alloy is selected in such a way that no deformation remains after the load is removed. The metal correctly selected by the manufacturer does not take the shape of an arc after 5 years of intensive work; the tubes remain absolutely straight and elastic. There is such a simple test: the assembled empty tent must be raised above the ground in one arc - and the shape must be maintained without any deformation. This is an important indicator of the strength and elasticity of the frame (and the lightness of the tent, of course). For ease of assembly, all parts of one arc are strung on an elastic band; The process of setting up a tent is greatly simplified, and there is less chance of losing any part of the frame.
Frames can be internal and external, that is, located under the awning or outside it. In strong wind conditions, it is more convenient to pitch a tent with an external frame. It works like this: special elastic bands are sewn along the edges of the tent, they are thrown over the arc of the frame in one quick movement and are fixed on a hook on the same edge.
Tents for mid-mountain areas are made of metal or plastic, tents for lowlands are mainly made of plastic frames.
Foreign companies use either American Easton or other duralumin alloys for metal frames. Russian manufacturers, as a rule, use D16T duralumin. Since Easton is lighter and better, with absolutely the same design and fabric, a tent on Easton will cost 1.5-2 times more than a tent on D16T. Plastic frames can be fiberglass, carbon fiber, Kevlar, etc.
Good plastic frames are determined not only by the material used (usually carbon fiber or Kevlar), but also by high manufacturing technology with spatial orientation and fiber tension. Fiberglass is distinguished by its low price and lack of residual deformation, but it is almost twice as heavy as an aluminum alloy, is not frost-resistant, and has low strength. These properties are quite enough for simple hikes. Lightweight plastic frames (carbon fiber or Kevlar) are distinguished by high manufacturing technology with spatial orientation and fiber tension, so the cost of such frames is higher than metal ones.
Tent.
It should be noted right away that frame tents are divided into two-layer (awning + inner tent) and single-layer.
The following requirements are imposed on the awning material of a single-layer tent: waterproofness coupled with breathability (necessary to prevent moisture condensation on the inner surface of the tent). As a rule, membrane fabrics a la Gore-Tex have this quality. Such designs have superior weight characteristics, but the high cost of membrane fabrics increases the cost of tents to an indecent level.
For double-layer tents, everything is simpler: the awning should not leak, be durable and light, and the space between it and the inner tent (at least two centimeters) serves to drain condensation that inevitably forms during breathing. These requirements are met to one degree or another by such materials as POLYESTER RIPSTOP, NYLON TAFFETA, silicone (a polymer material with a layer of silicone applied). Since the awning is not a solid product, but sewn from separate parts, the seams must be taped, otherwise the waterproofness will end on them. When choosing a tent, make sure that the awning does not come into contact with the inner fabric. Missing this moment can have unpleasant consequences - moisture will penetrate into such a place.
The main category by which the quality of an awning is primarily judged is the height of the water column, which it is guaranteed to withstand. Indicators close to 10 meters are very good. Of course, they try not to set up tents at such a depth, but a heavy drop of water flying from the sky with great speed plops onto the tent and presses very hard. For high-quality sealing, the seams of the awning are taped with the same Tape tape, and all kinds of guy wires that secure the awning to the ground should not form ever-increasing holes under strong tension.
Seams.
The seams are where water starts to drip first. The seams on the awning are either glued or boiled. Sizing is used on cheaper materials (“silver”). Recently, good companies have been using the “tape” technology - a special taping machine welds a waterproof tape (made of a material similar in properties to the awning material) to the seam. Boiling is a more durable option than sizing.
In any case, it is advisable to purchase a product for sealing seams and periodically process them additionally. A tent with untaped seams automatically falls into the category of the lowest or, oddly enough, on the contrary, the most professional. For example, some super-sophisticated tent may have untaped seams, simply because the tent, by definition, will stand above the rain zone - there is simply no need for taping. There is another approach to processing seams, which is quite rare: “reinforced seams”. A reinforced seam is a seam with a sling inserted into it. With the correct ratio of the stretch coefficient of the sling and the fabric, a tent with reinforced seams stretches well, and the seam does not stretch, and water does not get into the holes.
To prevent the inner tent from unraveling at the seams (and nylon has such an unpleasant property), the stitching is specially processed, and as a result it looks like the side seam on branded Levi's jeans. Strength is achieved due to the fact that actually four layers of material are connected by double stitching.
Inner tent.
The basic requirements are as follows: the fabric must breathe (for ventilation purposes), be light and durable. They mainly use NYLON RIPSTOP (reinforced nylon), NYLON TAFFETA (not to be confused with Nylon Taffeta Silver), POLYCOTTON, COTTON.
They are quite durable, very light, and allow air and water vapor to pass through well, which condenses on the inner surface of the outer tent and drips down to the ground.
Bottom of the tent.
This is the basis. It is this that is in the most severe operating mode, because the tent has to be pitched on sharp stones, and on ice, snow, water, sand... If the bottom is not wet, then the sleeping bag and other things remain dry, and this, in turn, is comfort. Fabrics are completely waterproof if they can withstand 3000 mm of water pressure without getting wet, which is twice the DIN standard for waterproof fabrics, which also provides heat resistance and fire retardant properties while maintaining flexibility.
Use POLYESTER RIPSTOP, NYLON TAFFETA PU 6000, MODEN HEAVY NYLON TAFFETA PU 8000, NYLON OXFORD, POLYOXFORD, 210T RIPSTOP NYLON.
Aluminized Polyester Ripstop (without polyurethane) has significantly lower water resistance ratings (1500-2000 mm). Polyurethane treated Nylon Taffeta can withstand pressures from 1000 to 1500 mm. Waterproof reinforced polyethylene is also used, but it has a higher specific gravity and is therefore used in camping models. Lobar and corner seams must be sealed using a special Tape. Water enters a tent with such a bottom only if its level rises above the level of the bottom trough. The bottom of cheaper tent options is made of reinforced polyethylene, which itself does not get wet. If you glue the seams well and regularly, then such a tent will hold water well. The service life of the polyethylene bottom will still be significantly shorter.
SOME FEATURES OF THE DESIGN OF HIGH MOUNTAIN ASSAULT TENTS.
You need to pay attention to the lightning. Some of them cannot withstand extreme overloads such as hurricane winds and snowfall. Zippers No. 5 performed well - the width of the working connection is 5 mm. On good tents the mysterious YKK is written on the zippers. Zippers with such a stamp did not cause any complaints.
There should be an elastic band inside the tubes, under the influence of which the frame, hung in a free state, assembles on its own, which, you see, is quite convenient on some shelf - without worrying about any part not flying irretrievably into a deep abyss.
The system of lines and hooks, unlike other suspension systems of the inner tent, can be worked with down gloves. By the way, why not another test: ask for down mittens in the store (or put on two pairs of ordinary construction gloves, or at worst, just wrap your hands with a piece of rag) and try to set up the tent that you are going to buy...
Smooth Seam - the idea itself is simple and suggests itself. Remember the children's joke - “Why is it so smooth, but not like that?”, when one child runs across the face of another, first from top to bottom, and then from bottom to top, touching the chin, nose, eyebrows, etc... So here, if this rule is followed, all seams are smoothed in the direction of the flow of water and raindrops, turning into trickles and streams, without meeting any obstacles on their way, they roll down to the very ground, which allows you to get a decent waterproof even without gluing the seams.
Such an easy-to-understand idea turns out to be quite difficult to implement in practice due to technological difficulties. And it is not sold by every manufacturer. So it’s worth checking whether this rule is followed on the tent you use or are planning to buy
An apron or skirt 15 to 25 cm wide lies on the ground or snow and drains water from the bottom. Plus it closes the way for cold air into the inner tent. Can be reinforced with ribbon with loops at the corners for the peg
A waterproof bottom is a waterproof bottom. Some problems with choosing a location are immediately solved. You can even pitch a tent in a puddle. Especially at night and if you are very tired. A waterproof awning is a waterproof awning. It will not leak in a light rain or in a heavy driving downpour. It must be said that the waterproofness of the fabrics of the awning and the bottom is not an abstract concept, but has its own units of measurement - mm of water column / square meter of fabric. That is, what height in mm of water column will a square meter of fabric withstand without getting wet. For example, resting your knee on wet snow, you create a pressure on the material of your pants of about 10,000 mm h.st.\sq.m. The awning of the tent must withstand at least 3000 mm.v.st.\sq.m, and the bottom must be 2 times larger. Self-respecting manufacturing companies give similar characteristics.
The weight of a tent of this type should not exceed 1.1 kg per person. The larger the capacity, the less weight per person.